Manuals and specs

1. 1

   Put the mic in its isolation clip.

   Then mount the clip on your stand.

2. 2

   Connect a balanced XLR cable.

   From the stem on the bottom of the mic to the mic input on your interface or preamp.

3. 3

   Check your screens.

   Make sure the screens you want are on and seated on their magnets.

4. 4

   Turn on 48V phantom power.

   The Ohma Condenser needs it to run.

5. 5

   Give it about a minute.

   Then check that you have signal and set your input level.

Always connect the cable before you turn phantom power on, and turn phantom power off before you unplug.

The back of the mic has the XLR mount screw hole on its stem. The front has none, so sing or play into that side.

Still not sure? Remove the bottom screen on the back with an Ohma pick (or any thick pick). Under it, the mic is labeled BACK.

Your serial number is under that same screen. You’ll need it to register your mic and for warranty service.

Ohma Condensers made since May 2026 have a −16.5 dB pad. It’s for very loud sources, and for sources with a lot of bass recorded up close, like a kick drum or a cranked amp. The pad lowers the signal before it reaches the mic’s electronics, so they don’t clip. With it on, the mic handles about 134 dB SPL instead of 118 dB.

1. 1

   Mute first.

   Mute your speakers, headphones or the mic.

2. 2

   Remove the bottom screen on the back.

   Use the pick, the same way you swap screens.

3. 3

   Slide the pad switch.

   It’s a small slide switch. Push it with your fingertip to turn the pad on, and push it back to turn it off.

4. 4

   Put the screen back.

   Let the magnets pull it in until it sits flush.

Have an Ohma Condenser from before May 2026? We can add the pad. There may be a fee, depending on your mic. Email sammy@ohmaworld.com with your serial number.

• Your mic, assembled and tested, with the screens you chose already on
• The isolation clip
• Two Ohma 1.21 mm picks for swapping screens
• Custom logo screens come installed, with your standard screens underneath the mic

Screen sets come in their own case with two more picks. Pop filters come in their own box with a desk stand.

The front and back screens are the first thing sound passes through, so each one shapes what the capsule hears. Always use the same screen on the front and back.

Tap a screen to hear it on vocals.

Motif The mix-ready Ohma sound, and the screen we tuned the Debby capsule around. If you’re unsure, start here. Hear itHide

Windows Space and dimension. Our most open screen, with the strongest proximity effect and a darker top. Hear itHide

Stripes Focus at the source. Mids forward, fewer plosives, less room. Great on amps and punchy vocals. Hear itHide

Scales Clarity with definition. A little less low-end weight, so vocals and acoustic guitar step forward. Hear itHide

Holes The most linear Ohma sound. Even from top to bottom, for bass, kick, piano and strings. Hear itHide

The Ohma Pop Filter stops plosives, bursts of air and moisture before they reach the capsule. Condenser capsules are sensitive to moisture, so keep the pop filter on when you sing up close.

• Don’t plug in or unplug the mic while phantom power is on.
• Mute before you swap screens, and take care when the mic has no screens on.
• Condenser capsules are sensitive to moisture. Use the pop filter when you sing up close.
• Cover the mic or put it back in its box when you’re not using it. The magnets can pick up tiny metal particles.
• Our brass screens are clear coated, so they keep their finish. The exception is B-stock brass where noted.

Charts for the other four screens are on the way.

1. 1

   Put the mic in its isolation clip.

   Then mount the clip on your stand.

2. 2

   Connect a balanced XLR cable.

   From the stem on the bottom of the mic to the mic input on your interface or preamp.

3. 3

   Check your screens.

   Make sure the screens you want are on and seated on their magnets.

4. 4

   Turn on 48V phantom power.

   The Ohma Ribbon is an active ribbon, so it needs phantom power, and phantom power is safe for it.

5. 5

   Give it about a minute.

   Then check that you have signal and set your input level.

Never hot-plug the Ohma Ribbon. Plugging it in or unplugging it while phantom power is on can damage the electronics inside, and those electronics are what protect the ribbon. Turn phantom power off first, every time, then connect or disconnect the cable.

The back of the mic has the XLR mount screw hole on its stem. The front has none, so sing or play into that side.

The Ohma Ribbon is figure-8, so it hears the back as well as the front. Point the front at your source.

Still not sure? Remove the bottom screen on the back with an Ohma pick (or any thick pick). Under it, the mic is labeled BACK.

Your serial number is under that same screen. You’ll need it to register your mic and for warranty service.

• Your mic, assembled and tested, with the screens you chose already on
• The isolation clip
• Two Ohma 1.21 mm picks for swapping screens
• Custom logo screens come installed, with your standard screens underneath the mic

Screen sets come in their own case with two more picks. Pop filters come in their own box with a desk stand.

The front and back screens are the first thing sound passes through, so each one shapes what the ribbon hears. Always use the same screen on the front and back.

Tap a screen to hear it on vocals.

Motif The mix-ready Ohma sound. If you’re unsure, start here. Hear itHide

Windows Space and dimension. Our most open screen, with the strongest proximity effect and a darker top. Hear itHide

Stripes Focus at the source. Mids forward, fewer plosives, less room. Great on amps and punchy vocals. Hear itHide

Scales Clarity with definition. A little less low-end weight, so vocals and acoustic guitar step forward. Hear itHide

Holes The most linear Ohma sound. Even from top to bottom, for bass, kick, piano and strings. Hear itHide

The Ohma Pop Filter stops plosives and bursts of air before they reach the ribbon.

• Never plug in or unplug the Ohma Ribbon while phantom power is on. Hot-plugging can damage its electronics, which protect the ribbon.
• Mute before you swap screens, and take care when the mic has no screens on.
• Cover the mic or put it back in its box when you’re not using it. The magnets can pick up tiny metal particles.
• Our brass screens are clear coated, so they keep their finish. The exception is B-stock brass where noted.

Charts for the other four screens are on the way.

1. 1

   Put the Ohmie in its isolation clip.

   Then mount the clip on your stand.

2. 2

   Connect a balanced XLR cable.

   From the bottom of the mic to the mic input on your interface, preamp or field recorder.

3. 3

   Pick 48V or 80V.

   Use the switch on the back. Not sure? Start at 48V. Turn your headphones and speakers down before you flip it.

4. 4

   Turn on 48V phantom power.

   That’s all it needs in either mode. The Ohmie makes its 80V inside the mic.

5. 5

   Check your signal.

   Set your input level and record. On loud sources, turn on the pad on your interface or preamp.

Always connect the cable before you turn phantom power on, and turn phantom power off before you unplug.

The switch changes the voltage on the capsule, and that changes the sound. Both modes run on standard 48V phantom power.

Turn your headphones and speakers down before you flip the switch. Going between 48V and 80V makes a mild pop.

The Ohmie is a high-output mic. On loud sources like a kick drum or a cranked amp, you’ll probably need the pad on your audio interface or preamp. 48V also gives you more headroom than 80V.

Sing or play into the side with the OHMIE wordmark. The 48V / 80V switch is on the back.

Your serial number is on the XLR connector, next to the pins. Look inside the stem at the bottom of the mic to see it. You’ll need it to register your mic and for warranty service.

• The Ohmie, assembled and tested in East LA
• Its isolation clip

No XLR cable is included. The Ohmie Pop Filter is sold separately or in the Ohmie + Pop Filter Bundle. It snaps onto the front with magnets and comes with a desk stand and two picks.

1. 1

   Bring it to the front of the Ohmie.

   Hold the pop filter in front of the grille, on the side with the OHMIE wordmark.

2. 2

   Let the magnets snap it on.

   No clamps or goosenecks. It clicks into place in a second.

3. 3

   Taking it off.

   Pull it away and park it on its desk stand.

The Ohmie Pop Filter is sold on its own or in the Ohmie + Pop Filter Bundle. Ohma pop filters don’t fit the Ohmie.

• Don’t plug in or unplug the mic while phantom power is on.
• Keep it dry, avoid drops, and store it in its box when you’re not using it.
• Keep it away from extreme heat and dust.
• Turn your headphones and speakers down before you flip the 48V / 80V switch.